Sew, What's Your Problem?
There never
seems to be enough hours in the day to do all that we have to
do. The last thing a sewer needs when she sits down at her
sewing machine is to have everything go wrong! The needle
breaks, thread jams in the bobbin area or keeps skipping
stitches or a number of other frustrating problems that keep
the project from being completed. These problems happen to the
novice sewer as well as the seasoned pro, and while we would
like to blame the sewing machine and perhaps "throw it
out the window", there are measures the home sewer can
take to correct most problems or even prevent them from
happening in the first place.
The sewing
machine needle is probably the number one cause of problems
for sewers and crafters. This may sound silly, but the first
thing to check when having stitching problems is whether the
needle is in backwards. Oh, I know you're saying "I've
been sewing most of my life and I know how to put the needle
in the machine", but in about 25% of the sewing machine
repair jobs I go out on, the only problem was that the needle
was put in backwards. If your machine will not pick up the
bottom thread or skips stitches badly, in most cases it's
because your needle is in wrong.
Each sewing
machine requires the "flat" side of the needle be
put in a specific way - facing the front, the back, etc.,
depending on your particular make and model. Sewers in a hurry
to get a project done may simply insert the needle and not pay
attention to the position of the flat side, and immediately
begin having problems. If by chance you have a sewing machine
that takes a needle that doesn't have a flat side, you'll
notice that each needle has a groove in it where the thread
lays as it penetrates the fabric. Depending on whether your
machine shuttle system faces to the front or to the left, the
groove of the needle will also face front or left.
A needle that
is dull, bent, or simply the wrong size or type can cause
major sewing problems. Just because the needle "looks
good" doesn't mean that it is good. A small
"snag" on the tip of the needle can cause runs in
the fabric, and even a slightly bent needle won't sew
properly. A good rule of thumb would be to change the machine
needle before each new project, and, because some fabrics and
fabric finishes can increase wear on the needle, you may need
to change the needle during the project if you notice
stitching problems beginning to appear.
Always use the
right size needle for the type of fabric you're sewing. I've
seen sewers trying to sew denim with a fine lingerie type
needle simply "because the needle was in the machine and
still a good needle", and others trying to sew fine
fabrics with needles that are much too large. A needle too
fine for heavy fabric can bend or break when it hits the
fabric, while too large a needle for the fabric can make
puncture holes in the fabric and also cause the thread to pull
unevenly while stitching. Do yourself a huge favor and check
the machine needle before you begin any new project. The
second thing to check is the thread itself. We have found that
"cheap" thread is definitely not a bargain! The
fibers of the "bargain" thread splits easily while
you're sewing and can cause knotting of the thread, breakage
of the thread and can also cause a build-up of lint in the
bobbin area and along the thread line from the spool to the
needle. If you hold a length of the bargain thread up to a
light you can readily see the frayed edges and roughness of
the thread. Stick to a good quality thread and you'll minimize
the potential problems.
An additional
area to check for stitching problems is whether the sewing
machine is threaded properly. Each machine has a certain
sequence for threading, and it only takes one missed step in
the sequence to cause your machine to skip stitches. If you're
in doubt, take the top thread completely out and start all
over again.
Many times
it's the small things that cause much frustration and loss of
sewing time. Taking just a few minutes before starting a
project to make sure everything is in order can save hours of
"down" time, not to mention frayed nerves and the
possibility of having to take the machine to a repair shop
unnecessarily.
Reuben Doyle,
a sewing machine repairman for over 25 years has written
"Sewing Machine Repair for the Home Sewer" ($19.95 +
$2.00 P&H) and "Serger Repair for the Home
Sewer" ($19.95 + $2.00 P&H) for those who would like
to end the frustration of interrupted sewing projects and
unnecessary trips to the repair shop. Each book contains
problem/solution scenarios, expert tips on maintaining your
sewing machine or serger, and information that sewing machine
repairs shops don't want you to know! Both books are
available at http://SewMachineRepair.com.
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